Years ago, when we first started making cider, we used whatever apples grew in our old, gnarly orchard—Jonathan, Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, the random Winesap. We did a nice job on our first batch of bumper-crop cider. Inspired, we began learning more about cider history and tasting regional artisanal ciders. What a revelation! It was like trading up from a Concord grape–based wine to a premium Cabernet. Both are drinkable, but using specialty fruit makes all the difference between the simply quaffable and the thoroughly enjoyable. We realized regular dessert apples were not going to cut it. If we were serious about cider, we needed the goods.

The finest cider is made from traditional European and American cider apples. These heritage apples contain tannins, acidity, and sugars that impart a complexity, flavor, and depth not found in mass-market ciders, which are made from apples that are better for eating, not for drinking.

In 2010 we established our first cider-apple orchard in western Sonoma County, along the Gravenstein Highway, named after the region’s famed but fading apple variety. (This being wine country, perhaps a more accurate moniker would be Pinot-Chardonnay Way — and yes, we’re aware of the irony: after decades of the apple orchards being replaced by vineyards, we’re planting ... apples.) Among the varieties are Yarlington Mill, Tremblett’s Bitter, and Kingston Black. You might not recognize these names because they were selected exclusively for making hard cider, a lost art in the U.S. They taste pretty terrible if you eat them off the tree — growers call them “spitters” for obvious reasons.

We’ve also planted heritage multipurpose varieties, ones that we could eat, bake with, or put in the cider blend. In total, we have 11 varieties planted in the ground, with many more in early stages of growth. We will not see apples from these trees for a few years, so until then, we are sourcing the best organic varieties from local growers.